Introducing cats is no easy task. The earlier stages are somewhat simple: scent and site swapping, feeding on opposites sides of the door, etc. Many of my cat consulting clients struggle when it comes to putting the cats in the same room. Even if the cats can eat in the same room, after that, there are issues. I’ve found the best way to get over this hump is to put the more aggressive cat (the pursuer) in a harness. Here are my tips on how to introduce cats with a harness.
Quick Review: Basics for Introducing Cats
To introduce cats, get them used to each other’s scent first. That’s why you’ll want to work on swapping scents with items, swapping sites between rooms, and feeding on opposite sides of a door. Then, you slowly expose them to each other visually. While feeding, use a covered barrier (like a baby gate) and slowly uncover each time the cats eat. After that, you can try feeding in one room. If it goes well, congratulations! If it doesn’t, you’ll want to train the aggressor (the cat that’s pursuing the other cat) to wear a harness so you can control their movements.
For more details about these steps, I suggest you read my other articles:
- Introducing Cats Part I: Start in a Small Space
- Introducing Cats Part II: Scent Swap & Combo Feeding
- Introducing Cats Part III: Meeting, Mingling & Coexisting
Why Use a Harness
I like to use a harness when it’s time to introduce cats for multiple reasons:
- You gain a sense of control in the situation, and don’t have to worry about one cat harming the other. This lowers your anxiety and helps you focus on the task at hand.
- The victim cat learns the other cat can’t get to them and relaxes.
- The aggressive cat learns they can’t go after the victim and starts doing other things. Any time the aggressor doesn’t focus on the victim, that’s a win!
- It’s a bonding experience for you and your harnessed cat.
- You’ll have an easier time training your cat to do (or not do) other things because they learn more vocal commands.
How to Harness Train a Cat
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You’ll want to shop for a harness that fits snugly so your cat can’t get out of it. I like vest-type harnesses because I feel like they’re more comfortable for that cat than the strappy ones. Measure your cat and check the harness’ reviews to make sure you get the right size.
After you receive the harness, here are the steps to train your cat, taken from my article Walking a Cat: A Step-by-Step Guide:
- Step 1: Place the harness next to the food bowl or with toys at playtime. Spray it with Feliway (pheromone spray) or even put treats or catnip on it. You’ll want to do this for a few days to get your cat used to the actual harness.
- Step 2: Put the harness on your cat and immediately reward with affection and treats. If your cat goats (falls over and doesn’t move), that’s okay, just leave them in the harness for maybe 60 seconds, take it off, give treats, and try for 90 seconds the next time.
- Step 3: Each time your cat’s in the harness, try to extend the amount of time they’re wearing it and encourage them to move. Play with them, make a small trail of treats across the room, or call their name and lead them with a tube treat.
- Step 4: Once your cat’s comfortable wearing the harness, attach the leash. Use treats and vocal commands to lead them places around the living space. Again, increase the amount of time they’re in the harness each time they where it. Important: When they do something you don’t want, calmly say, “No,” and gently tug on the leash.
- Step 5: Once you reach 10 minutes, you can consider your cat harness trained!
Play Dates & Training Sessions with Both Cats
When you want to introduce cats, the keys to successful play dates include:
- Disrupt any staredowns by redirecting with treats, toys, or affection.
- Try to maintain a distance between the two that both cats are comfortable with. If they get too close, just calmly reset them.
Start by having a 5 minute session where the cats are together in the same room, with the aggressor in the harness. If the aggressor starts to focus at all on the victim, redirect with treats, toys, or affection. You may have to redirect a lot but that is a normal part of the process. It should decrease over time. Be sure to tug on the leash and say, “No,” if the aggressor tries to pursue the victim.
You’ll want the cats playing or just hanging out together in the same room.
Play Date Activities to Try
- Joint Play – Use two toys (one per cat) and engage in play. This is easier if there are two people, but if not, just hold one toy in each hand.
- Joint Treats – Offer a tube treat to one, then the other, and go back and forth, calling their names as you do it. This is a nice way for them to enjoy time together and share a treat.
Over time, you can extend the amount of time these sessions are going on (I would do them for a longer period of time each day, even if you only increase it by a minute). As you get more comfortable, you should be able to watch TV or do other normal activities in the living space.
You will need to see how the cats respond to all of this and adjust the timing and distraction items as necessary.
You’ll know the aggressor doesn’t need the harness anymore when: 1) the aggressor is disinterested in the victim 2) the victim isn’t hiding and doesn’t seem intimidated by the aggressor.
When Nothing Is Working
If you’re still having a hard time getting the cats to get along, talk to your vet to see if medication is an option. Sometimes temporarily medicating anxious cats help the introductory process.
Also, keep in mind that not all cats are compatible. Some cats can’t live with particular cats and some cats can’t live with other cats at all. If you find you, your family, and your cats are extremely stressed and the introduction methods aren’t working, you may want to consider rehoming the newest cat. Do not look at it as a failure, but doing what’s best for all parties involved.